Oaxaca
Oaxaca (pronounced wa-hah-kah), a city located about 300 miles south of Mexico City, is the capital of the state of the same name. Oaxaca city’s pleasantly mild climate, due to its altitude of 5000 feet above sea level, is but one many reasons to visit. Rich in history and culture, Oaxaca is a fascinating destination where you can appreciate ancient civilizations, colonial art and architecture and vibrant cultural traditions. You needn’t be concerned about safety here; Oaxaca is one of the safest Mexican tourist destinations you could choose.
Oaxaca city was founded in 1529, but the area has been inhabited since prehistoric times; some of the earliest known evidence of domesticated plants in the Americas was found within the valley of Oaxaca. Monte Alban archaeological site, located on a spectacular mountaintop setting, about 16 km (ten miles) west of Oaxaca city, was the capital of the Zapotec civilization from 500 B.C. to 800 A.D. It is the most important archaeological site to visit in Oaxaca, but there are several others that are also well worth your time, such as Mitla, Yagul, and Dainzu.
The layout of Oaxaca city follows the traditional colonial town plan, with its zocalo (main square) surrounded by the cathedral and government buildings. Many of the city’s colonial-era buildings, dating from the 16th century, have been exquisitely restored and now house galleries, museums, hotels, and restaurants.
Oaxaca’s history is strongly felt, but its present day life and culture are very vibrant and colorful, as you will experience through the fiestas, food, handicrafts and markets. Among the many important fiestas that take place in Oaxaca city throughout the year, some that stand out are the Guelaguetza, Day of the Dead, and Noche de Rabanos (Night of the Radishes).
Oaxaca is renowned for its cuisine with culinary specialties including mole, a rich sauce made of ground chilies and a multitude of other ingredients; a local type of string cheese called quesillo; large tortillas called tlayudas; and spicy fried grasshoppers known as chapulines. Try traditional Mexican hot chocolate or sample mezcal, an alcoholic beverage, which like tequila, is made from the agave plant. Many visitors to Oaxaca choose to take a cooking class.
Looking for handicrafts? Many of the villages surrounding Oaxaca city specialize in different types of crafts, including ceramics, textiles, wood carvings, and tin work. You can purchase crafts in the city shops and markets, or go to the villages to meet the craftspeople and see them at work.
Extraordinary cuisine, unique handicrafts, fascinating archeological sites, colonial architecture, vibrant villages and the welcoming locals with their deep-rooted traditions all combine to make Oaxaca one of the most enchanting places to visit in Mexico. Not to be missed!
The Heart of Oaxaca
Oaxaca’s main square, officially called the Plaza de la Constitucion, but commonly referred to as the zocalo, is the heart of the city. This tree-filled plaza has numerous cafés and restaurants under the arcades. Balloon vendors, musicians, locals, and tourists of all ages congregate in this lively plaza. In the evenings you can enjoy concerts performed by the Oaxaca state band, mariachi or marimba music or performances from touring musicians.
Consult your Oaxaca city map and you will see that the layout of the zocalo and surrounding buildings follow the colonial town plan which dictated that the city should have a central plaza with buildings representing the religious and civil authorities surrounding it.
Oaxaca’s Palacio de Gobierno is located to the south of the zocalo. Historically this building functioned as city hall, but in 2005 the government offices were moved to other premises and it was converted into the Museo del Palacio. Inside, in the stairwell leading to the second floor, fine murals by Arturo Garcia Bustos depict the struggles in Oaxaca during the historical periods of the conquest, independence, and the Mexican Revolution.
To the north of the zocalo you will find the Cathedral of Oaxaca, fronting the Alameda de Leon, another shady plaza where you can get a free Oaxaca city map. The cathedral went through several construction periods and was consecrated in 1733. It is built of green volcanic stone with a fine baroque façade depicting the Assumption of Mary. The cathedral’s cupola and twin bell towers are rather squat in order to withstand the frequent earthquakes that have historically caused damage to Oaxaca’s colonial buildings. The cathedral has a basilica style floor plan and 14 side chapels. Inside you’ll find an impressive collection of 16th and 17th century paintings.
The zocalo is the ideal place to begin your exploration of Oaxaca. Find a table at one of the many surrounding cafes and restaurants, order a refreshment and watch the life of the city unfold before you.
Hierve el Agua
One of the most picturesque natural attractions in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, Hierve el Agua offers a unique and off-the-beaten-path travel experience. It’s a top ecotourism destination in Oaxaca, especially popular among naturalists, hikers and photographers.
The name Hierve el Agua translates to “the water boils”, and the natural mineral springs that are found here take their name from the bubbling of the warm water as it flows up from the earth through the springs and releases oxygen into the turquoise cliff-top pools.
When you arrive at Hierve el Agua you’ll see what appear to be a massive waterfalls frozen to the side of the mountain. These are actually natural mineral formations that have built up over thousands of years as a result of the mineral-laden water spilling over the edge of the cliff and trickling down the rocky mountain side.
It’s hard to resist a soak in the springs at Hierve el Agua. The minerals in the water are said to be beneficial for the skin and the views from the two cliff-top bathing pools, both of which offer expansive panoramas of the valleys below, are some of the most spectacular in Oaxaca.
Hiking is another favorite activity at Hierve el Agua. There are numerous trails and walking paths in the area. You can hike most of them in less than an hour, including the main trail that leads down the side of the mountain to the base of the petrified falls where it’s possible to get a closer view of the mineral formations and even do a bit of climbing.
Hierve el Agua is best visited on day trips and guided tours from Oaxaca City. Some basic cabanas and a few small restaurants cater to overnight visitors.
Markets of Oaxaca
If something is abundant in Oaxaca, it is beautiful crafts and delicious traditional dishes. To appreciate the vast craft and gastronomic wealth in Oaxaca, visit the Juarez and 20 de noviembre markets, located just a few blocks from the main square, and separated from each other by a street. To walk along its corridors is to become immersed in a world of colors, flavors and textures.
The Juarez market is perfect for buying souvenirs; here you will find endless alebrijes, black clay pottery from San Bartolo Coyotepec, leather goods, rugs from Teotitlan del Valle, ponchos and blankets, and many other souvenirs to take back home.
Here, you will also find typical food, such as sweets, egg yolk bred, string cheese and butter, chips, bitter chocolate, mescal cream and crispy grasshoppers, large and small, roasted on a griddle, and seasoned with chile piquin and lemon. Buy a bag full of these delicacies and eat them as a snack… they are delicious!
On the other hand the 20 de noviembre market is perfect for enjoying a delicious meal. Here you can indulge your palate with a variety of Oaxacan dishes, all the way from the famous tlayudas with tasajo and beans, to chicken in black mole. Cool off with tejate water, a drink prepared with corn and cocoa.
You are still craving some dessert? Try the market’s artisanal sherbets: they come in many flavors: mescal, guanabana, prickly pear and other unusual flavors.
With appealing cultural and culinary scenes and a beautiful colonial core of lovely, tree-shaded streets, Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s most captivating cities. Artists and artisans alike are inspired by the area’s creative atmosphere, indigenous traditions and bright, clear light. Oaxaca has top-class museums, charming inns, fascinating markets and its own subtle version of Mexican cuisine. The easygoing pace frequently breaks out into the fireworks of a fiesta, and there’s some brightly colored event unfolding in the streets or the Zócalo (Oaxaca’s lovely central square) almost every day.